PCT 23 – on the Eagle River alternate

A mostly uneventful hike through forest toward the Columbia Gorge. There were occasional views of Mt Hood behind me, and Mt Adams in Washington to the north.

But mostly it was just tedious walking through an undistinguished forest. So, in true hiker fashion, I complained about it even though it was not difficult or in any way unpleasant.

That’s not quite true. The flies became more active; worse, a Yellowjacket helped herself to a chunk of my calf. I then discovered that I had somehow left the Benadryl out of my first aid kit. Although it stung pretty bad, the pain and swelling were local and did not progress to anything systematic.

My ankle and knee felt better and better as the day went on, easing my fears that I was in a downward spiral of inflammation that would hobble me and force me off trail. Still, I thought it best to take the Eagle River alternate alternate trail.

The Eagle River alternate is taken by most PCT hikers because it goes down a very beautiful river gorge highlighted by a section of trail that is carved into a rock face and then through a tunnel behind a waterfall. Don’t want to pass that up for more boring forest walking.

But the alternate trail drops steep and rough down into the gorge. The alternate alternate switchbacks down more gently, at the cost of adding a couple extra miles. That seemed like a better option with a sore knee. It also goes by scenic Whatum Lake

I’d hiked about 18 miles at that point and was feeling pretty good knee-wise, but thought it best to camp and not press my luck. However it was Saturday, and not too far from Portland, and there were hordes of backpackers already camped at the lake. I figured I’d walk another mile or two down the outlet valley and find a spot there.

There were indeed a few spots, but all were taken by the weekenders. I ended up hiking another 6 miles down almost to the bottom of the gorge before I found a plausible site. It was near dark at that point and well into a burn area with bad trail erosion and plenty of deadfalls. If I hadn’t found that spot I probably would have just camped on the trail, as there was no way I was going to hike a trail that rough in the dark.

It was a nice enough spot and I was soon joined by Beetle, another PCT hiker desperately searching for a campsite before dark. She is a wildlife biologist who works at a natural history museum in Ontario, a good person to share a campsite with.