Silver Basin to Anthracite Basin
A leisurely breakfast then I started the descent to Anthracite Creek. There were fine views to be had through the open aspen forests.
Looking east over the Raggeds Wilderness
I met a hiker coming up who said he was on a mission to hike all of Colorado’s wilderness areas. That is a fine ambition and I wished him well. Although I have never set so specific a goal, the Raggeds Wilderness (where I now am) has long been on my list. When I was plotting my route, I could have chosen the direct route between CB and Aspen–take the shuttle to CB Mountain, hike over East Maroon Pass and down to the Maroon trailhead where a shuttle takes you direct to town. That’s a hike that can be done in a day.
But I have hiked much of that route already as part of the 4 Pass Loop. It is plenty scenic but would be filled with trail runners, day hikers and weekend backpackers grunting under enormous packs. I prefer to strike out for country I have not seen before and where I am not likely to see too many other faces. Human faces, anyway.
I don’t mean that to sound so snarky. I respect anyone who ventures out into the wilderness powered by their own two feet. But the more gear you carry, the more time you spend wrangling that gear. You stagger under its weight, both mental and physical. The time you spend engaged with gear is time spent not engaged with your surroundings. The more stuff you bring, the harder it is to be truly present.
That’s my experience, anyway. Maybe it is different for different people. Most likely. Probably. But who can truly say?
Early light on the Ruby Range
The trail became heinously overgrown as I got down to more temperate elevations . I lost the trail a couple of times, following game trails until they petered out and it occurred to me to check my map. The trail down was pretty steep–there was a section noted as the “Devil’s Stairway” on the map–and my under-trained quads soon began to howl.
The descent ended at the Middle Fork of Anthracite Creek, a lush and lovely corridor spanned by a sturdy bridge, a hopeful sign of better trail ahead.
This spot seemed especially exquisite to me as I lunched along the creek.
The bad times started on the ascent up the North Fork of the Anthracite. It was a south facing canyon and there was little shade, especially in the lower reaches. The real problem was the chest-high ferns and yarrows and other brush overgrowing the trail. They not only constituted a barrier to passage, but created a super humid micro climate that made it impossible for me to cool off. I was drenched with sweat that would not evaporate. My legs were shaking a few times as I approached a state of heat exhaustion. I must have drunk 3 liters of water in the 6 mile climb and it still wasn’t enough.
I startled a cinnamon bear about halfway up. Only its hindquarters were visible as it dashed into the brush, but I’d guess it was a 300-pounder. Its hackles were clearly up along its spine, which made me glad it was inclined to retreat rather than tell me to back off. The speed and ease with which bears can travel through thick brush is amazing.
The creek, which I hoped would offer good fishing, was low and turbid with gray slaty silt. The signs of a recent flood were all about: freshly eroded banks, piles of logs and brush. I’m glad I wasn’t here for that.
In the optimism of morning I thought I could make Anthracite Pass and maybe even Marble today. But the heat and bad trail slowed my pace considerably and I am content to camp in the headwaters basin of the creek.
The camping here is poorer than expected. A prime spot is covered by a debris flow (really glad I wasn’t here for that). Most of the ground is damp and marshy, even in the spruce groves, which normally offer drier ground. So I’ll expect a damp evening after a hot dry day but I’m OK with that. It’s a beautiful spot and I am looking forward to making the pass early in the morning tomorrow. I just need to tie my Ursack up far from camp, this is definitely bear country.