Well that was a hard hike.
And not the last hard hike either. Only 12 miles today, but the last 6 comprised a 4000-foot climb on bad trail. I was surprised at just how hard it was but maybe I shouldn’t be. After all, the reason why I’m doing this hike, this year, is that I suspect if I wait I won’t be able to do it ever, because then it will be too hard.
Every year I feel a bit more strength drain out of my body as entropy, the most relentless force in the universe, claims its due. Every year my legs are weaker, my breath is shorter. I may be in good shape for 62 but the mountains don’t give senior discounts. Either you climb the hill or you don’t.
Started the day fishing for Goldens along Golden Trout Creek but the fish had no interest in a dry fly in the early morning shade.
Stopped to take in other sights- a natural bridge over the creek formed by an old lava flow, and a soda spring down on the floor of the Kern River gorge.
Hard to see, but there is a natural bridge here
The algae-filled soda spring
The bridge proved surprisingly hard to photograph, the channel hiding behind rock outcroppings. The soda spring was well-covered with algae. I took a drink anyway and found it unremarkable. I snacked by the Kern River, running high and fast.
Kern River bridge, the beginning of the climb
The Kern is much too big and fast to even consider fording
Then the fun began. The trail out of the gorge climbs 1200 feet in the first mile. It was hot and there was little shade. I sweated and panted profusely and slugged down a liter of water in that first mile.
I saw no human tracks on the trail, only the steps of a lone horse or mule. No one really hikes this trail. It is in a far corner of Sequoia NP, far from any trailhead. It is just a way to get from Mineral King to the Kern, and there are easier ways.
At least I hope they are easier as this way is very hard.
Halfway up I encountered a father and son heading down, they were just as surprised to see me as I was them. They told me that the trail was badly overgrown with manzanita in the far side of the pass, and after that there were no places to camp for a good 6 miles.
I had planned on hiking a few miles beyond the pass, but was not excited about doing a long bushwhack and another climb.
Coyote Pass, a fine place to camp
Coyote Pass has a nice flat area and fine views, so I loaded up an extra liter of water and called it a day when I got there. But I’ll have to make up some extra miles tomorrow.